Archive for the ‘Handwork and Craft Ideas’ Category
Jan
28
Posted by wardeh
Baby Doll Quilt Kit Instructions
by Wardeh Harmon
My Naomi and her doll quilt that inspired this kit you can make and give as a gift!
This is a quilt kit meant for young ladies who are still young enough for enjoying dolls, and are beginning to learn to quilt. In fact, I have shared a doll quilt made by my daughter Naomi using this pattern. But recently, I assembled together the ingredients for making this quilt to give as a kit — to a young lady we know on the occasion of her birthday. Our young friend’s mother is the one who gave me the idea for making this doll quilt into a kit when she shared that her daughter would really like to make a doll quilt.
What you’ll need to gather together are these supplies:
• (25) 5-inch squares total of 4 or 5 types of fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of back fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of unbleached cotton batting
• (3) 2″ x 40 to 45″ strips of fabric for the binding
• Embroidery crochet thread for tying
Put it all together, with instructions (below), and it is ready for gift giving!
The recipient will need to supply thread, a sewing machine, scissors, and pins.
© Copyright 2008 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~The following are the instructions for the Baby Doll Quilt Kit (To Teach Keepers(TM), Jan-Feb-Mar 2008).
Cut and paste the following. Please include the copyright information at the end when passing these instructions on with your gift. The instructions are for personal, not commercial, use only.
Baby Doll Quilt Kit Instructions
Included
• (25) 5-inch squares total of 4 or 5 types of fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of back fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of unbleached cotton batting
• (3) 2″ x 40″ to 45″ strips of fabric for the binding
• Embroidery crochet thread for tying
You Also Need
• Thread
• Sewing Machine
• Scissors
• Pins
1. Decide on Arrangement
Arrange the fabric squares as you prefer. Leave them in place throughout the process of piecing the top. As rows are completed, return them to their original position.
2. Construct the Rows
Take the 1st square from the 1st row right side up and lay the 2nd square from the 1st row face down on top of it. Sew them together along the right side, using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Lay the 2 squares open and flat. Take the 3rd square from the 1st row and place it face down on top of the 2nd square. Sew these two squares together along the right side, again using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to the same side.
Repeat until all the squares from the 1st row are attached together. Repeat for all rows, alternating the direction you press the seam allowances. For instance, if they are pressed to the right in Row 1, then press them to the left in Row 2, and so on.
3. Sew the Rows Together
The rows are still lined up in their original placement from Step 1, although now they are sewn together. Fold Row 1 face down on top of Row 2 (Row 2 face up underneath Row 1 being face down). Pin along the top, paying special attention to where all the seams meet. Sew the rows together, using 1/4″ seam allowance, trying to make the seams line up as best as you can — Mom may need to help with this step. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Lay Row 1 and Row 2 (now sewn together) open and flat. Take Row 3 and fold it up on top of Row 3 (so that is face down on top of Row 2). Pin them together along the bottom, once again paying special attention to where the seams meet. Again with mom’s help, sew these two rows together, using 1/4″ seam allowance, trying to make the seams line up as best as you can. Press the seam allowance in the opposite direction.
Repeat this process until all 5 rows are attached together.
4. Arrange the Layers
Lay the backing fabric face down on a clear floor or table. Lay the batting over it and follow that with the quilt top facing up. Starting from the center and radiating out, safety pin all the layers together by putting one pin in the center of each square.
5. Machine-Quilt, Hand-Quilt, or Thread Tie the Layers Together
You have some choices here.
You can use a straight stitch either on your sewing machine or by hand, and “stitch in the ditch” along all the seam lines of the quilt top. If you have a wave stitch on your sewing machine, you might want to use it (stitch width at 3 and stitch length at 3 to 4) along all the seam lines. The wave stitch is very forgiving because it isn’t meant to go straight. In addition, it looks cute and whimsical, as a doll quilt should be. When machine-quilting, remember to smooth the fabric outward as you stitch.
When machine quilting, stitch the inner seams first and radiate outward, in order to prevent lumps. For instance, start stitching along a middle seam and add parallel lines of wave stitching until you reach the right edge of the quilt top. Then turn the quilt around 180 degrees and add parallel lines of wave stitching until you reach the edge of the quilt top again. Then turn the quilt 90 degrees. Starting in the middle again, add parallel lines of stitching out to the right edge of the quilt top. Now you have only to turn it around 180 degrees for the last time and work your way from the middle to the other edge.
Note: If you stitch each line starting at just off the quilt top and ends just off the quilt top, there is no need to back-stitch. When the binding is added, all those seams will be crossed, securing them.
The final option is to add a tie through all the layers at all the corners where the quilt top squares meet.
6. Create the Binding
Here’s where Mom will possibly have to step in. Take the (3) 2″ strips.
Right sides together, place the end of one strip perpendicular to the end of another strip, with each strip set in 1/4″ from the end of the other strip. Sew a diagonal seam to join the two strips so that they are now one long continuous straight strip. Now add the third 2″ strip in the same manner to one end of the already joined strips.
Trim the excess of both join seams, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams open. Fold and press the long strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. This is the binding.
7. Attach the Binding
Start attaching the binding in the middle of the bottom side of the quilt, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the quilt, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold.
Sew the binding to the first side of the quilt, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge. Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the quilt from the sewing machine.
Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the quilt and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the quilt and stitch this side.
Repeat this technique around all sides, until you approach the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place.
Backstitch and remove the quilt from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Press open.
Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn and press the binding to the back side.
You have two choices for finishing here. You may hand-stitch the binding in place, covering the machine stitches and the raw edges of all layers with the folded edge of the binding.
Or, you may use the sewing machine’s wave stitch (stitch width at about 2 and stitch length at about 3 to 4) to sew it down. In this case, stitch close to the folded edge of the binding on the back side, all the way around the four sides. Remember that the wave stitch is wide, so leave enough room for the stitching to wave back and forth, all the while remaining on the binding. It can barely cross into the backing, but try to keep it primarily on the binding.
Now you’ve made your baby doll a nice quilt of her own!
© Copyright 2008 by Wardeh Harmon. Personal, not commerical, use is permitted by the author.
Jun
15
Posted by wardeh
My daughter Naomi (8) came up with this quilt idea herself. She wanted to make a quilt for her baby doll. I thought that was great. A baby doll quilt’s smaller size makes a quilt project very doable for an 8-year old. Including piecing the top together and machine-stitching the quilt herself, it took only two afternoons. As her mom, all I had to do was prepare and add the binding to the quilt.
Your little “mom” will be tickled to make her baby doll a quilt, too. I just know it.
Please comment below or write to me if you have questions. Happy sewing!
Baby Doll Quilt
Supplies
(5) 5-inch squares of 5 types of fabric (25 squares total)
25″ x 25″ square of back fabric
25″ x 25″ square of unbleached cotton batting
(2) 2″ x 45″ strips of fabric for the binding
matching thread for piecing and machine-quilting
safety pins and quilting pins
1. Decide on Arrangement
Arrange the fabric squares as you prefer. Leave them in place throughout the process of piecing the top. As rows are completed, return them to their original position.
Here’s Naomi, deciding on her arrangement
(which we actually changed after taking this picture).
2. Construct the Rows
Take the 1st square from the 1st row right side up and lay the 2nd square from the 1st row face down on top of it. Sew them together along the right side, using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Lay the 2 squares open and flat. Take the 3rd square from the 1st row and place it face down on top of the 2nd square. Sew these two squares together along the right side, again using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to the same side.
Repeat until all the squares from the 1st row are attached together. Repeat for all rows, alternating the direction you press the seam allowances. For instance, if they are pressed to the right in Row 1, then press them to the left in Row 2, and so on.
3. Sew the Rows Together
The rows are still lined up in their original placement from Step 1, although now they are sewn together. Fold Row 1 face down on top of Row 2 (Row 2 face up underneath Row 1 being face down). Pin along the top, paying special attention to where all the seams meet. Now help the young seamstress sew the rows together, using 1/4″ seam allowance, trying to make the seams line up as best as she can. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Lay Row 1 and Row 2 (now sewn together) open and flat. Take Row 3 and fold it up on top of Row 3 (so that is face down on top of Row 2). Pin them together along the bottom, once again paying special attention to where the seams meet. Help the young seamstress sew these two rows together, using 1/4″ seam allowance, trying to make the seams line up as best as she can. Press the seam allowance in the opposite direction.
Repeat this process until all 5 rows are attached together.
4. Arrange the Layers
Lay the backing fabric face down on a clear floor or table. Lay the batting over it and follow that with the quilt top facing up. Staring from the center and radiating out, safety pin all the layers together by putting one pin in the center of each square.
Naomi’s quilt top is layered on top of the batting and backing,
ready to quilt the layers together.
5. Machine-Quilt or Hand-Quilt the Layers
Have the young seamstress either machine-quilt or hand-quilt by “stitching in the ditch” along all the seam lines of the quilt top. My Naomi opted to use the sewing machine’s wave stitch (stitch width at 3 and stitch length at 3 to 4) along all the seam lines. The wave stitch is very forgiving because it isn’t meant to go straight. In addition, it looks cute and whimsical, as a doll quilt should be.
When machine-quilting, direct your daughter to smooth the fabric outward as she stitches.
Naomi worked her hands to smooth the fabric outward
as she machine quilted along the top’s seams.
Stitch the inner seams first and radiate outward, in order to prevent lumps. For instance, start stitching along a middle seam and add parallel lines of wave stitching until she reaches the right edge of the quilt top. Then turn the quilt around 180 degrees and add parallel lines of wave stitching until she reaches the edge of the quilt top again. Then turn the quilt 90 degrees. Starting in the middle again, add parallel lines of stitching out to the right edge of the quilt top. Now she has only to turn it around 180 degrees for the last time and work her way from the middle to the other edge.
Note: If she stitches each line starting at just off the quilt top and ends just off the quilt top, there is no need to back-stitch. When the binding is added, all those seams will be crossed, securing them.
6. Create the Binding
Here’s where you, Mom, will possibly have to step in. Take the two 2″ x 45″ strips.
Note: The following two pictures reveal the process of attaching the binding to the quilt front, although the fabrics shown are from another project.
Right sides together, place the end of one strip perpendicular to the end of the other strip, with each strip set in 1/4″ from the end of the other strip. Sew a diagonal seam to join the two strips so that they are now one long continuous straight strip. (These photos are from another project.)
Trim the excess, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.Press seams open. Fold and press the long strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. This is the binding.
7. Attach the Binding
Start attaching the binding in the middle of the bottom side of the quilt, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the quilt, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold.
Note: The following five pictures reveal the process of attaching the binding to the quilt front, although the fabrics shown are from another project.
Sew the binding to the first side of the quilt, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge.Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the quilt from the sewing machine.
Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the quilt and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the quilt and stitch this side.
Repeat this technique around all sides, until you approach the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place.
Backstitch and remove the quilt from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Press open.
Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn and press the binding to the back side. You have two choices for finishing here. You may hand-stitch the binding in place, covering the machine stitches and the raw edges of all layers with the folded edge of the binding. Or, you may use the sewing machine’s wave stitch (stitch width at about 2 and stitch length at about 3 to 4) to sew it down. In this case, stitch close to the folded edge of the binding on the back side, all the way around the four sides. Remember that the wave stitch is wide, so leave enough room for the stitching to wave back and forth, all the while remaining on the binding. It can barely cross into the backing, but try to keep it primarily on the binding.
Now your daughter can give her baby doll a nice quilt of her own. Here is my Naomi with her doll and quilt. Her baby doll is so happy! (And I would add, so is the little “mommy”.)
© Copyright 2007 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
Apr
05
Posted by wardeh
by Wardeh Harmon
Two teenage sisters from our church gave us some thank-you cards they made from a template similar to the one I’ll share here. The little cards were so cute! The girls and I made bunches of envelopes and cards ourselves not too much later. We tucked them in larger envelopes to send away in the mail, or handed them out as-is to folks locally whom we wanted to thank or greet.
You don’t need much to complete this craft. If you want larger envelopes and cards, experiment with enlarging the template on a photocopier. Using the template as-is, you’ll be able to fit 4 envelopes on one 12″ x 12″ sheet of scrapbook paper with very little waste. Consider tracing the printed paper template onto cardboard for a permanent template that will stand the test of time.
Supplies:
Makes (1) 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ envelope and matching insert card.
1. Click the link to the small envelope template. Right click on the image and choose “Save Image As” to save it onto your computer. Open it up with your computer’s picture viewing and editing software. Print at full size (the way it is). Cut it out.
2. Trace template on wrong side of scrapbook paper. Cut it out. With a pencil on the wrong side of the paper, mark “top” on top flap.
3. Fold over one side by bringing the flap as far as it will go. Crease firmly.
4. Fold over the other side flap as far as it will go. Crease firmly.
5. Fold up the bottom flap in the same manner. Crease firmly. Note where bottom flap overlaps side flaps. Unfold the bottom flap. Add glue to the side flaps where the bottom flap overlaps them.
6. Fold up bottom flap again and press it into glue. Remove excess glue, if necessary. Erase pencil marking(s) on top flap.
7. Fold down top flap and crease firmly. Unfold.
8. On the wrong side of a coordinating or matching sheet of scrapbook paper, mark a 6-3/4″ x 3-3/8″ envelope. Cut it out. This is the card.
9. Fold the card in half.
10. Optional: embellish envelope and/or insert card with stickers or cut-outs from additional paper. For example, if you are using a paper with watermelon figures for the envelope, you could cut one watermelon out of extra paper and glue it onto the front of the card made with coordinating paper.
Too cute! I always welcome comments, questions and/or suggestions. And I love success stories! Comment below or write to me at wardeh@t2chk.org.
© Copyright 2007 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
Mar
02
Posted by wardeh
by Wardeh Harmon
My husband bought two large sets of combination wrenches — one standard and one metric. But he had no way to store them that would keep them accessible and orderly. We looked around on the internet for tool roll-ups. They weren’t expensive — about $10 to $15 each. He would have needed 4 or 5 of them. But the largest and the smallest of his wrenches would never have fit in those commercial roll-ups.
I told him I could probably make him some tool roll-ups that would fit all his tools and save us some money. I don’t think he believed me at first, but now he does! (Reading this article through, my husband just told me that he tells me things like this to challenge me.) I practiced some different methods on thrift store canvas before I bought the heavy duty duck cloth that I used in the end. Each roll-up, including fabric and notions, ended up costing me about $7. So not only did we save money, but we custom fit all his tools.
So far, I have made him 4 roll-ups. The first one took me hours, I’m not kidding. Now I can make one in about an hour to an hour and a half. So if you’re going to attempt this project, I want to encourage you to stick with it. Everyone has a learning curve, including me. I always take forever the first time I do something.
The top folds over the tools and then it all rolls up, with a buckle to secure it.
If you would like to make this tool roll-up for the man in your life (hint, hint… plenty of time until Father’s Day), consider these important points about supplies, technique and machinery.
Divide Up The Tools — You’re going to create a tool roll-up based on a known set of tools, so before you begin, know what tools you want to put together. If you have a whole bunch of tools destined for multiple roll-ups, lay them all out in front of you. Divide them up how you (or your husband) prefer, by type or by usage. Put the tools in each group in order of size. Take the time to consider what will work best for the future.
I will tell you how we divided up my husband’s tools. He bought a set of 18 standard combination wrenches and a set of 25 metric combination wrenches. We divided up each set into 2 sets as follows.
Standard Set 1 (the 13 smaller wrenches) — 1/4″, 5/16″, 11/32″, 3/8″, 7/16″, 1/2″, 9/16″, 5/8″, 11/16″, 3/4″, 13/16″, 7/8″, 15/16″
Standard Set 2 (the 5 larger wrenches) — 1″, 1-1/16″, 1-1/8″, 1-1/4″, 1-5/16″
Metric Set 1 (the 16 smaller wrenches) — 6 mm, 7 mm, 8 mm, 9 mm, 10 mm, 11 mm, 12 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 15 mm, 16 mm, 17 mm, 18 mm, 19 mm, 20 mm, 21 mm
Metric Set 2 (the 9 larger wrenches) — 22 mm, 23 mm, 24 mm, 25 mm, 26 mm, 27 mm, 28 mm, 29 mm, 30 mm, 32 mm
Measurements — Taking accurate measurements of your tools is really, really important. You will do some rounding, but please take the time to accurately measure your tools so that your roll-up will end up fitting the tools well. You might find that taking the measurements and drawing out the dimensions of your tool roll-up is the most time consuming part of this project. I am not trying to overwhelm you; the results are worth it. So, use an accurate ruler or measuring tape and put the data in a chart such as the example I’ve given in Step 2. You’ll then use that data to create a diagram of tool roll-up that fits your tools.
Design: Buckle v. Tie Cords — After experimenting with tie cords to go around the tool roll-up, my husband asked me if I could add a buckle instead. He thought there would be less stress at the seams that way because of the tendency of the ties to pull at the seams on their way around the roll-up. So I tried buckles and we were both very happy with the result. The following pattern will show you how to add a buckle. If you’d like to do the tie cords instead, add them in as you sew the outer seams.
Duck Cloth Fabric — Duck cloth can be tricky. You’ll use large pieces of this heavy cloth. In order to get it smoothly feeding through your sewing machine, roll up the excess to fit it through the machine bed space. I have seen duck cloth online and at local stores such as Wal-Mart and JoAnn’s. Wal-Mart and JoAnn’s duck cloth is priced similarly, but JoAnn’s offering is heavier and stronger. I used my 40% off coupon at JoAnn’s to buy several yards of it in black for all the 5 tool roll-ups I intended to make. The resulting price per yard was $4.19. I chose JoAnn’s because, overall, it was a strong duck cloth at the best price.
Upholstery Thread — Using upholstery thread is a must. I tried normal all-purpose thread on my practice roll-up. Of course my husband put it to the test. One yank on a seam and the threads broke. I tried both Coats and Clark and Gutermann upholstery threads, as well as an even heavier nylon thread. My favorite choice is the Gutermann upholstery thread because it is very strong and my sewing machine handles it easily. I found the Gutermann thread at JoAnn’s (online) for about $3.99 for 300m/328yd. Choose a good strong thread that works in your sewing machine.
Denim Machine Needle — Use either a 100/16 or 110/18 denim sewing machine needle. If you intend to make multiple roll ups, plan on using a fresh needle after every one or two completed roll-ups. The needles wear out quickly and sometimes bend on the heavy duck cloth.
Test, Test, Test — You already have the benefit of what I learned when making a practice roll-up. I wrote this pattern based on what I found worked best. However, I don’t have your sewing machine, nor will I necessarily have the same thread or fabric. So I encourage you to run some multiple layers (preferably 4 layers) of duck cloth scraps through your machine. Use a denim needle and upholstery thread to see how your machine handles the thick fabric in multiple layers. Adjust your thread and/or bobbin tension(s). Refer to your manual for how to make these adjustments, if you find they are necessary.
Notions – The notions needed for this project are: a 20-inch piece of 1″ nylon strapping, a 1″ quick release buckle and a 1″ strap adjuster. Nylon strapping is available inexpensively with the cords and trims at a fabric store or in a fabric department. The buckle and strap adjuster are available there, too. However, I found the prices for the last 2 items to be needlessly high — around $3 each. I looked around locally and to my delight, I found a package of 2 buckles and 4 strap adjusters at an outdoor shop for $1.99.
Now on to the pattern itself…
SUPPLIES:
- Duck cloth, dark color — 1 to 1-1/2 yards per roll-up. This is just a ball-park figure; your roll-up might be significantly different than mine.
- Upholstery Thread, dark color
- 1″ nylon strapping, a 20″ piece — Hold the raw ends in front of a candle flame to heat seal them from ravelling.
- 1″ inch buckle
- 1″ strap adjuster
- Fray Check
1. Lay Out Tools.
In order of size, with the smallest tool on the left and the largest on the right, lay out all the tools that will be included in this tool roll-up.
2. Take Measurements.
Using the following chart and the column descriptions that follow, take measurements of each tool and fill in the values. For each measurement, the most precise you need to be is to the 16th of an inch.
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A
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B
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C
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D
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E
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F
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G
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| Tool Name or Size (ex: 6mm) |
Length of Tool |
How Much of Tool Covered by Roll-Up |
End Width (the end that will fit slot) |
End Depth (the end that will fit slot) |
Space Needed in Roll-Up |
Rounded Space Needed in Roll-Up |
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Column A = In order to identify each tool, list each one by name or size, starting with the smallest tool. Most tools have this engraved on it by the manufacturer.
Column B = Measure the length of only the shortest and longest tools.
Column C = How much of this tool do you want the roll up to cover? This measurement is only needed for the shortest and longest tools. Usually, leave about 1 to 2 inches exposed for easy identification and grabbing.
Column D = On the end of each tool that will fit down into the slot of the roll-up, measure the width of the end.
Column E = On the end of each tool that will fit down into the slot of the roll-up, measure the depth of the end.
Column F = Take 2 times the value of Column D and add the value of Column C.
Column G = Take the value in Column E and round up to the nearest quarter or half inch. (Ex: 1-3/8″ becomes 1-1/2″)
3. Create Diagram.
Use the data from your measurements to mark the distances in the following diagram.
Line AB = Add up all values in Column G (above) and add 1-1/2″.
Lines DC & FE = Height of longest tool (Column B).
Line CG = Height of longest tool (Column C) plus 1/2″.
Line EH = Height of shortest tool (Column C) plus 1/2″.
Line BD & AF = Take the length of tallest tool (Column B), subtract 1/3 of the length of shortest tool (Column B), and then add 1/2″. Round this value up to the nearest 1/4″.
Line HG = You do not need a distance for this line; it is a connector of the points H & G.
Line BG = Add up Lines BD, DC, and CG. Make a note of this distance off to the side of the line.
Line AH = Add up Lines AF, FE, and EH. Make a note of this distance off to the side of the line.
The lines AB, BG and AH tell you the needed dimensions for fabric to make your tool roll-up. You will need 2 such pieces for each roll-up. Now you can figure out how much duck cloth you need to buy. The duck cloth I purchased was 60″ wide.
4. Mark Fabric According to Diagram.
You will need to cut out 2 pieces of duck cloth that match the dimensions you diagrammed in the previous step. I found it best to fold the duck cloth in half lengthwise (parallel to the salvage edges) with the salvage edges together. Then I marked my dimensions on the duck cloth using dressmaker’s chalk in a light color.
I started by marking points A and B at the required distance. I used a carpenter’s L-square and my tape measure to extend out from A to H and from B to G. Then I connected B and G by making a straight line between those two points. I also marked points C, D, E and F, at the appropriate distances (using the diagram), so that I could draw dotted lines between them (see photo). These dotted lines become the fold lines in the finished roll-up.
Call this side, where you’ve made all your markings, the right side. The side that faces down of the underside layer is also the right side. In other words, the fabric is now in the position of wrong sides facing in and right sides facing out.
5. Check Your Work.
This step is a necessary visual check to make sure you’ve gotten your dimensions correctly calculated. You don’t want to cut the duck cloth until you make sure you’re on the right track.
Lay the shortest tool’s bottom end at the dotted line EC all the way over against the line AH. Lay the longest tool’s bottom end at the dotted line EC but all the way over against the line BG. Now at about the dotted line FD, fold the duck cloth down over the tools. Does it cover them both, with the shortest tool being covered two-thirds of the way? Unfold it.
Now fold up the diagonal edge at the dotted line EC. How much of the tools are exposed? Is it what you had in mind for how much would be left seen for easy identification and grabbing?
With the diagonal edge still folded up, fold the top back down. Are any of the tools showing?
If you’re not satisfied with any of these checks, you need to go back to the drawing board. Verify all your measurements. Create a new chart and a new diagram, if necessary. Map out new markings on your fabric (the old ones should brush off the duck cloth with a little rubbing) and perform the checks again until you’re satisfied with the dimensions.
6. Cut Out Duck Cloth.
Cut out both layers of duck cloth along the outside lines of your markings.
7. Sew the Roll-Up.
Turn duck cloth so that the wrong sides are facing out. Pin together, matching sides. Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around all sides. Leave a 3″ to 4″ opening at about 1″ up from point C toward point D. Backstitch securely at beginning and ending of stitching.
Clip corners close to stitching. Turn to the right sides facing out. Press well, turning raw edges of opening evenly to line up with sewn edges.
Thread the nylon strapping through the receiver end (see notions picture at beginning of article) of the buckle. Pull 2 inches through the buckle and fold back over the long end of the strapping. Sew the two layers together securely, as picture shows. The seams should make about a 1-inch rectangle, about 1 inch away from the buckle. The red arrow marks the 2 inches of strapping that is overlapping the longer end of strapping.
With dotted lines facing you, fold up along line CE. Press. On the underside, about halfway between points C and D, mark along the edge of the roll-up where strapping for buckle should be sewn down. Unfold along line CE.
Turn the roll-up over, so the dotted lines are on the underside and your mark for the strapping placement is facing you. Lay the strap over the mark, perpendicular to the edge and so that the end of the strap with the receiver end of the buckle is hanging off the marked edge (see photo). Butt the edge of the previous seaming on the strapping up with the edge of the roll-up. The red X’s in the photo show points C and D. The arrow shows where the seam on the strapping butts up against the edge of the roll-up.
Securely seam the strap to the backside of the roll-up, as picture shows. The 1″ rectangle of seaming should be about 1/2″ from the edge of the roll-up (as shown by the little red arrow).
Top-stitch along diagonal edge HG.
Turn roll-up so the dotted lines are facing up. Refold along line CE (previously pressed). Pin down, lining up edges.
Top-stitch along edge of both sides and the top of the roll-up (leaving bottom edge folded without stitching). It is okay to stitch over the strapping along the edge where it is already stitched down, but be careful not to get the loose ends of the strapping caught in the top-stitching.
Lay the tool roll-up out on a flat, hard surface, with the folded edge at the bottom. Using the measurements from Step 2, Column G, mark sewing lines at these intervals to create slots for the tools. Create the spaces in order of size, with the shorter tools on the left and the longer tools on the right. See photo.
Top-stitch along these marked lines, being sure to keep the straps free of the stitching. Backstitch securely at beginning and end of each line of stitching. If your sewing machine offers a triple stitch (either straight or zigzag), use it. I used my zigzag triple stitch with stitch width set at 2 and stitch length set at 4. Your machine’s settings may differ, so be sure to do a test swatch. See photo.
Stitch perpendicular for 1/4″ to 1/2″ to each seam at opening for extra strength. Pull all threads to back side. Knot ends. Apply Fray Check. Allow to dry for about 15 minutes before cutting thread ends.
Slip all the tools in the roll-up. If any of them are loose in their compartments, add another line of stitching about 1/8″ away from existing stitching, to take up a bit of the slack.
With backside of roll-up facing up, thread loose end of strap through the strap adjuster.
Thread the strap through the inserting end of buckle.
Turn everything over — the strap, the inserting end of the buckle, and the strap adjuster. Thread the strap back through the underside of the strap adjuster.
Now, with the tools in your creation, fold over the top edge and roll it all up. Adjust the straps so the buckle fits to your desired degree of snugness. You’re all done!
I have followed this procedure 4 times and carefully checked for errors. If you do find an error in the directions, please accept my apologies. I would love to hear of anything that should be corrected or clarified. I also appreciate hearing success stories — so if you make, use or love this tool roll-up, please let me know. Comment below or email me at wardeh@t2chk.org.
© Copyright 2007 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
Feb
05
Posted by wardeh
A Beginning Quilt Project for Young Girls, ages 7 to 10
By Wardeh & Haniya Harmon
I’m proud of my 9-year old daughter, Haniya, for creating this pillow. One day while I was serging around some cloth napkins, she was in the mood to sew, too. She got out her scrap bag and got to work at the idle-no-longer sewing machine. With a little help from Mom, the resulting pillow became Gramma’s birthday present. Her pillow inspired Naomi, our daughter who is 7. Naomi completed a pillow top in the same afternoon.
This makes a great project for new seamstresses because it doesn’t require careful piecing — your young seamstress will be sewing only straight seams, and not very many of them, at that. She’ll get good practice at using the sewing machine to seam those straight lines, which every seamstress needs to perfect. In addition, she’ll be able to complete the pillow pretty quickly, which makes for a great confidence builder.
The fabric scraps your daughter will need are 11″ long and at least 2″ wide. She will need as many of the strips so that when they are sewn together, the resulting pillow top will measure 11″ across. These strip dimensions allow for a 1/2″ seam allowance and will result in a 10″ diameter pillow. Notice in Haniya’s pillow (above) that some of her strips are quite wide; she used strips that were wider than the 2″ minimum. Feel free to adjust the dimensions of the pillow to suit your intended size pillow.
Supplies
- cotton fabric scraps — at least 11″ long and at least 2″ wide
- 11″ square of cotton fabric — for pillow back
- thread in a neutral color
- pins
- sewing machine
- iron & ironing board
- pillow batting
- needle & thread — to hand-sew the last side
1. Sew the Pillow Top.
Put 2 strips right sides together. Pin if necessary, or teach your daughter how to “finger pin” as she sews. Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, seam the 2 strips together. Press seam allowance open or to the darker side.
Continue adding strips until the pillow top measures 11″ across all the strips. Trim all threads.
2. Add the Pillow Back.
Right sides together, lay the pillow top on top of the 11″ square for the pillow back. Trim backing to the same size as the top, if necessary. Pin around all sides to line up edges. Using a 1/2″ seam allowance and backstitching at beginning and end, sew around all 4 sides, leaving a 3″ opening in the middle of the beginning side. Trim threads. Turn the pillow to the right side.
3. Stuff the Pillow.
Stuff the pillow full of pillow batting. Fill it as fully and as smoothly as possible. Use small clumps of batting to get an evenly filled pillow.
4. Finish the Open Side.
Fold under the raw edges of the fabric at the opening. Pin closed. Handstitch the opening closed. Knot securely and trim threads.
Wasn’t that easy? Please contact me if you have comments, questions or suggestions. You can leave a comment below or write to me at wardeh@t2chk.org.
© Copyright 2007 by Wardeh Harmon and Haniya Harmon. Used with permission from the authors.
