Archive for the ‘Wardeh's Archives’ Category
Jan
28
Posted by wardeh
Baby Doll Quilt Kit Instructions
by Wardeh Harmon
My Naomi and her doll quilt that inspired this kit you can make and give as a gift!
This is a quilt kit meant for young ladies who are still young enough for enjoying dolls, and are beginning to learn to quilt. In fact, I have shared a doll quilt made by my daughter Naomi using this pattern. But recently, I assembled together the ingredients for making this quilt to give as a kit — to a young lady we know on the occasion of her birthday. Our young friend’s mother is the one who gave me the idea for making this doll quilt into a kit when she shared that her daughter would really like to make a doll quilt.
What you’ll need to gather together are these supplies:
• (25) 5-inch squares total of 4 or 5 types of fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of back fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of unbleached cotton batting
• (3) 2″ x 40 to 45″ strips of fabric for the binding
• Embroidery crochet thread for tying
Put it all together, with instructions (below), and it is ready for gift giving!
The recipient will need to supply thread, a sewing machine, scissors, and pins.
© Copyright 2008 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~The following are the instructions for the Baby Doll Quilt Kit (To Teach Keepers(TM), Jan-Feb-Mar 2008).
Cut and paste the following. Please include the copyright information at the end when passing these instructions on with your gift. The instructions are for personal, not commercial, use only.
Baby Doll Quilt Kit Instructions
Included
• (25) 5-inch squares total of 4 or 5 types of fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of back fabric
• 28″ x 28″ square of unbleached cotton batting
• (3) 2″ x 40″ to 45″ strips of fabric for the binding
• Embroidery crochet thread for tying
You Also Need
• Thread
• Sewing Machine
• Scissors
• Pins
1. Decide on Arrangement
Arrange the fabric squares as you prefer. Leave them in place throughout the process of piecing the top. As rows are completed, return them to their original position.
2. Construct the Rows
Take the 1st square from the 1st row right side up and lay the 2nd square from the 1st row face down on top of it. Sew them together along the right side, using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Lay the 2 squares open and flat. Take the 3rd square from the 1st row and place it face down on top of the 2nd square. Sew these two squares together along the right side, again using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to the same side.
Repeat until all the squares from the 1st row are attached together. Repeat for all rows, alternating the direction you press the seam allowances. For instance, if they are pressed to the right in Row 1, then press them to the left in Row 2, and so on.
3. Sew the Rows Together
The rows are still lined up in their original placement from Step 1, although now they are sewn together. Fold Row 1 face down on top of Row 2 (Row 2 face up underneath Row 1 being face down). Pin along the top, paying special attention to where all the seams meet. Sew the rows together, using 1/4″ seam allowance, trying to make the seams line up as best as you can — Mom may need to help with this step. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Lay Row 1 and Row 2 (now sewn together) open and flat. Take Row 3 and fold it up on top of Row 3 (so that is face down on top of Row 2). Pin them together along the bottom, once again paying special attention to where the seams meet. Again with mom’s help, sew these two rows together, using 1/4″ seam allowance, trying to make the seams line up as best as you can. Press the seam allowance in the opposite direction.
Repeat this process until all 5 rows are attached together.
4. Arrange the Layers
Lay the backing fabric face down on a clear floor or table. Lay the batting over it and follow that with the quilt top facing up. Starting from the center and radiating out, safety pin all the layers together by putting one pin in the center of each square.
5. Machine-Quilt, Hand-Quilt, or Thread Tie the Layers Together
You have some choices here.
You can use a straight stitch either on your sewing machine or by hand, and “stitch in the ditch” along all the seam lines of the quilt top. If you have a wave stitch on your sewing machine, you might want to use it (stitch width at 3 and stitch length at 3 to 4) along all the seam lines. The wave stitch is very forgiving because it isn’t meant to go straight. In addition, it looks cute and whimsical, as a doll quilt should be. When machine-quilting, remember to smooth the fabric outward as you stitch.
When machine quilting, stitch the inner seams first and radiate outward, in order to prevent lumps. For instance, start stitching along a middle seam and add parallel lines of wave stitching until you reach the right edge of the quilt top. Then turn the quilt around 180 degrees and add parallel lines of wave stitching until you reach the edge of the quilt top again. Then turn the quilt 90 degrees. Starting in the middle again, add parallel lines of stitching out to the right edge of the quilt top. Now you have only to turn it around 180 degrees for the last time and work your way from the middle to the other edge.
Note: If you stitch each line starting at just off the quilt top and ends just off the quilt top, there is no need to back-stitch. When the binding is added, all those seams will be crossed, securing them.
The final option is to add a tie through all the layers at all the corners where the quilt top squares meet.
6. Create the Binding
Here’s where Mom will possibly have to step in. Take the (3) 2″ strips.
Right sides together, place the end of one strip perpendicular to the end of another strip, with each strip set in 1/4″ from the end of the other strip. Sew a diagonal seam to join the two strips so that they are now one long continuous straight strip. Now add the third 2″ strip in the same manner to one end of the already joined strips.
Trim the excess of both join seams, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams open. Fold and press the long strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. This is the binding.
7. Attach the Binding
Start attaching the binding in the middle of the bottom side of the quilt, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the quilt, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold.
Sew the binding to the first side of the quilt, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge. Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the quilt from the sewing machine.
Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the quilt and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the quilt and stitch this side.
Repeat this technique around all sides, until you approach the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place.
Backstitch and remove the quilt from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Press open.
Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn and press the binding to the back side.
You have two choices for finishing here. You may hand-stitch the binding in place, covering the machine stitches and the raw edges of all layers with the folded edge of the binding.
Or, you may use the sewing machine’s wave stitch (stitch width at about 2 and stitch length at about 3 to 4) to sew it down. In this case, stitch close to the folded edge of the binding on the back side, all the way around the four sides. Remember that the wave stitch is wide, so leave enough room for the stitching to wave back and forth, all the while remaining on the binding. It can barely cross into the backing, but try to keep it primarily on the binding.
Now you’ve made your baby doll a nice quilt of her own!
© Copyright 2008 by Wardeh Harmon. Personal, not commerical, use is permitted by the author.
May
17
Posted by wardeh
This article was originally published in the March 2006 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.
by Wardeh Harmon
I think it would be understatement to say that I am in love with Homespun fabrics. I discovered them anew last fall when I looked through my quilting books, choosing the Christmas gifts I would make. I began with constructing quilted wall hangings from the book, Colorful, Casual and Comfy Quilts, edited by Karen Bolestra. Since then, I have used Homespun fabrics to make patchwork pillows for my own home and my brother-in-law’s home. I featured those pillows in the January issue of the T2CHK e-zine. My latest project using this rustic fabric concludes this article — Homespun kitchen towels and napkins.
Homespun heart wall hanging uses 24 different Homespun fabrics.
One might wonder why I love Homespun fabric. First, I adore its appearance. To me, it is simple, comforting and even rustic, like old shirts. The assortment of available patterns in plaids and checks is mind-boggling. If you take a closer look at the wall hanging I made, you’ll see twenty-four different prints.
I also delight in Homespun fabric because of its texture. One can imagine how it would feel just by reading the definition of what makes a Homespun fabric — “a rough loosely woven fabric originally made with homespun yarn” (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/). The individual threads are more coarse than in other fabrics. Please don’t imagine that Homespun is overly coarse, however. Rather, I appreciate that when I run my hands along a piece, I can “feel” its grain.
One more charm on this fabric’s growing list is that my husband particularly likes it. He is not one to be interested in fancy frills. He’s a simple man with down-to-earth preferences, and I treasure him for being a stable, straightforward influence in our home. Since he likes Homespun fabric, I’ll be keeping it around.
Homespun kitchen towels and napkins
This month’s project — kitchen towels and napkins — uses Homespun fabric. I have been enjoying my own set of kitchen towels and napkins for three weeks. They are lightweight and slightly rough for a good drying texture. No matter how you hang them, wring them out or fold them, there’s no back side to cover up because the fabric is woven without a wrong side. The towels and napkins hold up well in the wash. When removed promptly from the dryer and smoothed out, they need little or no pressing. From the myriads of plaid or checked Homespun material available, you will be able to find just the right pattern to match your kitchen or dining room.
When you purchase Homespun fabric, keep a few things in mind. First, the bolt label will usually say “Homespun” on it. Additionally, check both sides of the fabric to make sure that there is no wrong side; rather, both sides will look identical. Third, Homespun patterns are usually plaid or checked. Finally, be aware that not all Homespuns are good quality; a terribly thin or see-through fabric will not hold up well for daily use.
Due to the coarser nature of this fabric, the checks and plaids don’t always line up symmetrically when cutting. Don’t stress about this. Cut the fabric to the dimensions indicated in the instructions and let the plaids and checks work themselves out in their own rustic fashion.
Have fun with these projects! Consider sending me a picture of your finished towels or napkins — I’d love to see what you’ve done. You can reach me at wardeh@t2chk.org with any comments or suggestions.
HOMESPUN KITCHEN TOWELS
makes 2 towels
Materials Needed:
- 1 yard Homespun fabric
- thread
Instructions:
1. Pre-wash and press the fabric. Cut fabric in half, parallel to the salvage edges.
2. On both pieces, fold over each edge 1/4 inch and press. Fold over 1/4 inch again and press. At corners, choose one edge to overlap the other.
3. Seam around entire outer edge of each towel, close to the inner folded edge. Clip threads.
4. Easy variation: Use a zig-zag stich or serger to finish raw edges of each towel.
HOMESPUN NAPKINS
makes 12 napkins
Materials Needed:
- 1 and 2/3 yards Homespun fabric
- thread
1. Pre-wash and press the fabric. Cut the fabric into four equal strips perpendicular to the salvage edges.
2. Cut each strip into three squares, for a total of 12 squares. Before cutting, each strip will be about 44 to 45 inches long. Either cut each strip into three equal pieces, or cut off the first two squares at 15 inch intervals, which will leave the third square to be somewhat less than 15 inches long. For these rustic napkins, the variances are not only acceptable, they are desirable.
3. On each of the twelve napkins, fold over each edge 1/4 inch and press. Fold over 1/4 inch again and press. At corners, choose one edge to overlap the other.
4. Seam around entire outer edge of each napkin, close to the inner folded edge. Clip threads.
5. Easy variation: Use a zig-zag stitch or serger to finish raw edges of each napkin.
© Copyright 2006 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
May
17
Posted by wardeh
This article was originally published in the February 2006 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.
by Wardeh Harmon
At the Titus 2 Christian HomeKeeper message board, we have begun our first ever T2CHK Quilt Block Swap. The ladies committed to the swap are signing on for quite a bit of work. I imagine there are even more ladies who love to quilt, but don’t have the time to spare to commit to a large project like our quilt block swap.
These Just-a-Few-Quilt-Blocks projects are great for the reason that they use true quilting techniques, but on a smaller — and more doable — scale. You can complete them in a day or two, or even perhaps in a few hours. Fairly soon, you’ll be enjoying your new creations.
Happy quilting! I welcome your comments, questions or suggestions. Email me at wardeh@t2chk.org.
THREE QUILT BLOCK TABLE RUNNER
Finished Size: 30-1/2″ x 11″
This table runner, being constructed of three quilt blocks, creates an ideal setting for a piece of pottery, a vase full of fresh flowers or a candle. Set your centerpiece item in the middle and let the blocks to each side show it (and themselves) off.
You can use any 9-1/2″ unfinished quilt block you’d like. There are numerous ideas and free patterns on the internet. A google search for “free quilt block patterns” will give you a lengthy list of choices. I enjoy looking for blocks at the Fraser Valley Quilters’ Guild website.
Three Quilt Block Table Runner ~ Evening Star blocks in medium greens and cream.
Three Quilt Block Table Runner ~ Evening Star blocks in deep reds and cream.
Needed Materials
- (3) 9-1/2″ unfinished quilt blocks
- (4) 1-1/2″ x 9″ strips (vertical borders)
- (2) 1-1/2″ x 32″ strips (horizontal borders)
- (2) 2″ x 45″ strips (double-fold binding)
- (1) 13″ x 33″ rectangle of backing fabric
- (1) 13″ x 33″ rectangle of batting
All seam allowances are 1/4″. Press seams in the direction that will result in the least amount of bulk. Where possible, press seams toward the darker fabrics.
1. Construct Quilt Blocks
Instructions for completing the Evening Star blocks (shown) can be found here. Whatever blocks you choose, make sure they are 9-1/2″ unfinished, or adjust the pattern dimensions accordingly. Trim blocks to make sure they are all the same size.
2. Add Borders
With right sides together, sew one 1-1/2″ x 9″ strip to the left side of one block and then sew another 1-1/2″ x 9″ strip to the right side of the same block. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Attach a second block to the strip on the right of the first block. Add a border strip to the second block, and so on, until all four 1-1/2″ x 9″ strips and the three blocks are sewn together in a row. Trim strips to the correct dimension as you go. Clip threads. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.
Sew the 1-1/2″ x 32″ strips to the top and bottom of the row of squares, right sides together. Clip threads. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.
3. Assemble Table Runner
Starting from the bottom, stack the pieces in this order:
a. backing, wrong side up
b. batting
c. row of quilt blocks, right side up
The batting and backing should be larger than the row of blocks, so center the blocks in the middle. Pin layers together.
4. Quilting
Use your preferred method of quilting — either tying, or hand- or machine-stitching — to secure all layers together. I machine-quilted the table runners shown by stitching an outline around each star and by stitching at the edge of each block inside the border strips, forming a square around the star.
5. Assemble Double-Fold Binding
Take the (2) 2″ x 45″ strips. Right sides together, place the end of one strip perpendicular to the end of the other strip, with each strip set in 1/4″ from the end of the other strip. Sew a diagonal seam to join the two strips so that they are now one long continuous straight strip. Trim the excess, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams open. Fold and press the long strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.
6. Attach Binding
Start attaching the binding in the middle of a side of the table runner, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the table runner top, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold. Sew the binding to the first side of the table runner, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the table runner from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the quilt and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the table runner. Repeat this technique around all sides, until you approach the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place. Backstitch and remove the table runner from the sewing machine. Clip threads.
Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn the binding to the back side and hand stitch in place, covering the machine stitches with the folded edge of the binding.
QUILT BLOCK POTHOLDER
Finished size: 8-1/4″ x 8-1/4″
This is a fantastic project for using up scraps or leftover blocks. I made pairs of these potholders for Christmas gifts in 2005. I constructed the block for each potholder out of leftover half-square triangles from a quilt wall hanging.
Quilt Block Potholder ~ A four-patch variation block in blues, tans and cream.
Needed Materials
- (1) 6-1/2″ unfinished quilt block
- (2) 1-1/4″ x 7″ strips (borders)
- (2) 1-1/4″ x 9″ strips (borders)
- (1) 2″ x 45″ strip (double-fold binding)
- (1) 9″ square of backing fabric
- (2) 9″ rectangles of batting
All seam allowances are 1/4″. Press seams in the direction that will result in the least amount of bulk. Also, press toward the darker fabrics, where possible.
1. Construct Quilt Block
Choose any 6-1/2″ unfinished quilt block, or adjust the pattern to fit another block dimension of your choice. The potholder shown is a simple four-patch block made up of four half-square triangles.
2. Add Borders
With right sides together, sew the 1-1/4″ x 7″ strips to the left and right side of the block. Clip threads. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.
Sew the 1-1/4″ x 9″ strips to the top and bottom of the block, right sides together. Clip threads. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.
3. Assemble Potholder
Starting from the bottom, stack the pieces in this order:
a. backing, wrong side up
b. batting, 2 layers
c. quilt block, right side up
The batting and backing should be larger than the block, so center the block in the middle. Pin layers together.
4. Quilting
Use your preferred method of quilting — either tying, or hand- or machine-stitching — to secure all layers together. The potholder shown holds five ties made from DMC craft thread, one in the middle and one in each corner.
5. Attach Binding
Fold and press the long binding strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. Start attaching the binding in the middle of a side of the potholder, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the potholder top, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold. Sew the binding to the first side of the potholder, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the potholder from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the potholder and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the potholder. Repeat this technique around all sides, until you are approaching the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place. Backstitch and remove the potholder from the sewing machine. Clip threads.
Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn the binding to the back side and hand stitch in place, covering the machine stitches with the folded edge of the binding.
6. Optional
Instead of making your own double-fold binding, you can use packaged double-fold binding made by Wright’s. One package is sufficient to complete approximately three potholders of this size.
© Copyright 2006 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
May
17
Posted by wardeh
This article was originally published in the January 2006 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.
by Wardeh Harmon
We recently moved to a larger house where we have more space, but not many items to display, so I’ve worked on a few projects to spice up our decor. For the Calendar Wall Collage, I featured striking photos of stained glass windows to add interest to a blank living room wall. The Family Abstract Art helped us make great memories while filling up a whole wall above our lonely couch. Finally, the Homespun Patchwork Throw Pillows dressed up that same couch using leftover scraps of Homespun fabric. Whether you have space to fill or you want to add a spark to your furnishings, I think you’ll find something you can’t wait to try!
CALENDAR WALL COLLAGE
The university I attended sent out a calendar last year featuring the glorious stained glass windows from the campus chapel. I framed my favorite six windows’ photos in 5″ by 7″ clip frames, and then hung the group of them together, making a collage on the wall. You can use virtually any paper artwork that you find memorable — a calendar’s pages, your child’s paper artwork, or pictures from a magazine. If you don’t fancy the clip frames, choose another frame that you like. Opt for a wall arrangement that suits your style, either symmetrical or staggered.
Calendar Wall Collage
Needed Materials
- Tape or glue (acid-free)
- Artwork from a calendar, magazines, or children’s drawings
- Clip frames, one for each piece of artwork in an appropriate size
- Cardstock, several sheets in a coordinating dark color
Instructions
1. Trim artwork to desired size. Cut cardstock to frame size.
2. Glue or tape artwork to cardstock, orienting it as you prefer.
3. Insert into clip frame following manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Hang on wall in desired arrangement.
FAMILY ABSTRACT ART
I purchased three canvases and informed my children that all I wanted for Christmas was for each one of them to paint me a masterpiece. The idea came from Family Fun Magazine (February 2004). My children practiced for a few weekends on large sheets of paper before they moved on to painting the canvases. When they painted, I directed them with four simple rules:
1) fill the entire top of the canvas with color
2) be consistent with shapes
3) paint large, not small, patches of color
4) paint contrasting colors next to each other
Your rules may be more loose or more stringent than mine, depending on your tastes.
Family Abstract Art
Needed Materials
- Stretched canvas for each family member, 18″ by 24″, or your preferred size
- 4 or 5 acrylic paint colors to match your decor, some light and some dark
- Paint brushes
- Plastic cups to use as water basins, one for each painter
- Foam plates to use as palettes, one for each painter
- Paper towels
Instructions
1. Squeeze paint onto foam plates. Give each painter a paintbrush, a palette, a water basin, and a paper towel folded in fourths and laid flat.
2. Dip paint brush in water, blot out extra water on paper towel, dip brush in paint, then spread paint on the canvas. Rinse brush in water and blot on the paper towel before changing paint colors.
3. After they are complete, hang the canvases on the wall in your desired arrangement.
4. Optional: Paint the sides of each canvas with a dark color, like black, to cover up any paint that may have escaped the top.
PATCHWORK HOMESPUN THROW PILLOWS
I love how a variety of Homespun fabrics sewn together look like scraps cut from old shirts. Using extra Homespun material I have from making quilt wall hangings, I created these to fill the need for throw pillows on my couch in the family room. The two pillows vary from each other in that they have a different print on each back and a unique arrangement of squares. Each pillow calls for 25 squares of Homespun fabric, but each square doesn’t have to be different from the others — aim for as much variety as possible by doubling up on the prints you like best until you have enough for each pillow.
Patchwork Homespun Throw Pillows
Needed Materials
Makes (2) 15″ pillows
- (50) 3 1/2″ squares of assorted Homespun fabrics (pillow tops)
- (2) 17″ squares of coordinating Homespun fabric (pillow backs)
- (2) 20 ounce packages of washable, non-bunching polyester craft stuffing
- black thread
Instructions
1. Each pillow top consists of (25) 3 1/2″ squares, arranged in a five by five grid. Arrange the 25 squares for each pillow top to your satisfaction. Sew the squares* for each row together, then sew the rows together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams in your desired fashion. When each pillow top is complete, trim the edges to square it up.
2. Lay each pillow top on the coordinating pillow back, right sides together. Trim the pillow back to match the dimensions of the pillow top. Sew each top to its back with a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a 7″ opening on one side. Turn each pillow right side out.
3. Stuff pillows to desired fullness. Hand stitch the opening on each pillow closed.
*Homespun fabrics don’t have a right or wrong side. If you use other material, you need to sew right sides together.
© Copyright 2006 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
May
17
Posted by wardeh
This article was originally published in the October 2005 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.
by Wardeh Harmon
“I praise you because I am fearfully and wonderfully made.” — Psalm 139:14
At a mom’s group I attended last spring, we together created amazingly simple, but tremendously unique baby quilts. Each mom painted a couple of muslin squares using simple coloring book pictures as our inspiration. A few ladies with basic sewing skills each took home nine squares (enough for one quilt top), flannel backing, and blanket binding. We couldn’t believe it when a few weeks later, the quilts came back assembled into precious, distinctive gifts. As a group, we made several baby quilts to give to struggling new moms.
You may be part of a mom’s group that is looking for meaningful gifts to give new moms. Or perhaps your dear friend just gave birth and you’ve been looking for just the perfect gift. I hope you will love making these easy painted quilts for your gift giving occasions.
Photo 1: Animal Quilt — This fun blue and green quilt is all about animals ~ a panda, a dolphin, a lion, an elephant and a bird. I chose a blue, green and brown striped flannel for the back. Every picture came from a barnyard coloring book… so easy! I stuck to my rule of only three colors ~ lime green, leaf green and periwinkle blue. I went for the antique brown outline look by using a black dry erase marker instead of a permanent black marker.
Photo 2: Psalm 139 Quilt — Four verses from Psalm 139 adorn this quilt ~ “For You created my inmost being,” “You knit me together in my mother’s womb,” “I praise You because I am fearfully and wonderfully made,” and “All the days ordained for me were written in Your book.” The middle square features my friend’s new baby girl’s name and her date of birth along with a set of baby footprints. The coordinating squares come from an antique blue and red floral fabric that I picked up at a thrift shop one blessed day.
PAINTED NINE-PATCH BABY QUILT INSTRUCTIONS
The following pattern incorporates five painted squares and four squares of complimentary patterned or solid cotton. Coordinate colors of the four unpainted squares with the flannel backing and blanket binding. (See Photo 1 and Photo 2 for examples of finished quilts.)
Needed Materials
- 5 (11 inch by 11 inch) squares of pre-washed unbleached muslin
- 4 (11 inch by 11 inch) squares of pre-washed solid or patterned cotton
- 1 yard flannel, solid or patterned, pre-washed
- 1 package Wright’s blanket binding
- white or ivory thread
- thread to match blanket binding (optional)
- 4 or 5 acrylic paint colors (black plus 3 or 4 other colors which coordinate with flannel and blanket binding color choices)
- coloring book pages
- paint brushes (fine line brush for outlining and lettering, fuller brushes for filling in colors)
- extra fine-line black permanent marker
- newspaper
1. Paint Quilt Squares
Before you paint, think of a theme. For almost certain painting success, find five designs in coloring books that work well with the theme. Look for simple pages, preferably with one large dominating image. Some great, simple themes that would be easily supported by coloring book pages are animals, summer fun, sports, or angels.
With your theme and supporting images ready to go, start painting each square. Protect your work surface by placing newspaper underneath the quilt squares. Leave a one to two inch border around the edge of each square free of painting. This blank white space will set off your painting, just like a frame.
Slip coloring pages under the muslin squares to guide your artwork. Trace just the main lines, using an extra fine-line permanent black marker (or a fine line brush and black paint). Remove the coloring page and “color” in the picture using a fuller brush dipped in other paint colors.
If you prefer painting without the aid of coloring pages, go for it. You can practice your drawings first, if you’d like. Draw your design on paper and then slip the paper under the muslin square. You will be able to trace the drawing (with a permanent black marker or black paint) right onto the square. Or practice your design right on the fabric by using light pencil marks, which you can then paint over. Be aware that if you use light colored paint over pencil, the pencil marks may show permanently.
Dress up Your Painting
- Center drawing or lettering as much as possible. If lettering isn’t quite centered, don’t despair. I like to paint hearts or flowers to take up any extra space.
- Draw just the first letter of a phrase in cursive to dress up printing.
- Keep colors simple. Too much color gets lost. Use only three or four colors for filling in. Colors don’t have to be used realistically. Ears can be blue, eyes can be pink, and grass can be purple. If you use the same colors throughout the quilt (and each color does not have to be on each square), your consistency will tie them all together. (See photo 4.)
Photo 4: Lion Close-Up — Features do not have to be painted in realistic colors to be effective.
- Don’t be afraid of white space. Add color in just a few features of an outlined image. Leave just a thin bead of irregular white space between a patch of color and the outline. (See photo 5.)
Photo 5: Dolphin Close-Up — This cute little dolphin isn’t entirely painted. Notice that only the water splashes and his eyes, fins and tongue are painted in. Also, within each area I’ve painted, I’ve left a bead of white space between the color and the outline.
- To end up with outlines of an antique brown color after heat setting, use an extra fine line black draw-erase marker. However, the marker lines can smear by painting too close to them, so preserve white space with this technique.
- Don’t be a perfectionist. Handmade crafts are in fashion. People adore products that look a little less than perfect.
- Engage children in the project. Use their hand- and foot-prints. Let them paint and color simple shapes or words.
2. Heat Set Painted Squares
Let the painted squares dry for 24 hours. Toss in dryer on high heat for 50 minutes. Remove. Wash in washing machine on gentle cycle with cold water. Dry completely. Press flat.
3. Assemble Quilt Squares
Lay out the five finished painted squares and four coordinating squares on a flat surface in a checkerboard pattern. Arrange them as you prefer. Put your best square or the “theme” square in the middle.
Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, begin sewing. With right sides together sew the first and second squares together at the right edge of the first square, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Open up the first and second squares and lay them flat. Lay the third square down on top of the second square with right sides together. Sew the edges together at the right edge of the second square, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Lay aside. Continue sewing the second row and third row in the same fashion. Press seams open or toward the darker colored squares.
Lay the first row on top of the second row, right sides together (the pictures in the first row will be right side up and the pictures in the second row will be upside down). Line up all seams and edges. Pin in place. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the first and second rows together at the bottom edge of the first row. Open up the first and second rows and lay them flat. Lay the third row on top of the second, right sides together (now the pictures in the second row will be right side up and the pictures in the third row will be upside down). Line up all seams and edges. Pin in place. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the second and third rows together at the bottom edge of the second row. Lay entire quilt out flat and press seams open or toward the darker colored squares.
4. Add Flannel Back
Press flannel so that it is completely smooth. Lay it out on a flat surface with the wrong side up. Lay the quilt top, right side up, on top of the flannel so that two of the four edges match. Pin together. Cut the flannel to match the exact size of the quilt top.
If you have a dark colored or patterned flannel, it may show through the muslin. In this case, cut a piece of light colored fabric (another piece of muslin or a light-colored sheet) the same size as the entire quilt top. Layer it in between the quilt top and flannel back. It will become a permanent part of the quilt. Pin all layers together.
Stay stitch all the layers together by sewing a seam 1/4 inch from the quilt’s edge all the way around the quilt.
5. Attach Blanket Binding
For less noticeable stitching, use a thread color that matches the binding color. Read carefully and follow the directions at the Wright’s website to attach the blanket binding.
Even though the binding is seemingly simple to attach, it can be a tricky. I have found that a few additional instructions are helpful.
Additional Blanket Binding Instructions
- Start attaching the binding at the bottom edge, about 1/3 of the way from the bottom right-hand corner. Pin the binding to the bottom edge, overlapping the binding over the blanket edge by 1/2 inch. Leaving four inches unsewn at the beginning, sew along the very edge of the binding all the way to the end of this side. DO NOT CUT BINDING. Follow the Wright’s website directions to pin the first corner and second side. Continue pinning and sewing just one corner and side at a time.
- When you finish attaching the binding around the last corner and are approaching the point where you started, cut the end binding so that it overlaps the beginning binding by about three inches. Tuck the end binding under the beginning binding. Turn the beginning binding edge under 1/2 inch and pin down, lining up the edges. Now you can finish stitching along the blanket edge.
- Topstitch perpendicular to the blanket edge along the folded edge of beginning binding to secure. Go back to each corner and sew along the diagonal to secure the mitered corners.
6. Variations
- Use nine muslin squares and paint all the squares in the quilt top.
- Add contrasting fabric strips in between the nine squares.
- Add bulk to the quilt by putting a thick layer in between the quilt top and the flannel back, such as a blanket or batting.
- Challenge your color ideas. Use colors that normally don’t go together, like red and pink, or orange and blue. Give a quilt in an unexpected color to a new baby. In the Psalm 139 Quilt (Photo 2), even though the main color is soft blue, the blanket is just right for a baby girl because of the feminine antique red and blue floral design.
7. Bless a Precious Child
Now that you’ve dreamed up a quilt and fashioned it together, you’re ready to give your lovingly painted, unique baby quilt to a little baby who will need and cherish it.
If you’re like me, much delight comes from working on a project and watching it come to life. In most cases, I marvel that a home arts project could turn out so beautifully. But no matter how much pleasure the creating brings, I receive even more joy from giving away something I’ve dreamt in my heart and fashioned with my hands. This is perhaps why not many things that I’ve made remain in my house. The two baby quilts I worked on to draw up this pattern are soon to be delivered into the hands of two of my dear friends who each have just had a new baby. I will enjoy that more than anything!
I would love to see a photo of the quilt you create. I welcome all your comments, suggestions and photos at wardeh@t2chk.org.
© Copyright 2005 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.
