This article was originally published in the March 2006 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.

by Wardeh Harmon

I think it would be understatement to say that I am in love with Homespun fabrics. I discovered them anew last fall when I looked through my quilting books, choosing the Christmas gifts I would make. I began with constructing quilted wall hangings from the book, Colorful, Casual and Comfy Quilts, edited by Karen Bolestra. Since then, I have used Homespun fabrics to make patchwork pillows for my own home and my brother-in-law’s home. I featured those pillows in the January issue of the T2CHK e-zine. My latest project using this rustic fabric concludes this article — Homespun kitchen towels and napkins.

Homespun heart wall hanging uses 24 different Homespun fabrics.

One might wonder why I love Homespun fabric. First, I adore its appearance. To me, it is simple, comforting and even rustic, like old shirts. The assortment of available patterns in plaids and checks is mind-boggling. If you take a closer look at the wall hanging I made, you’ll see twenty-four different prints.

I also delight in Homespun fabric because of its texture. One can imagine how it would feel just by reading the definition of what makes a Homespun fabric — “a rough loosely woven fabric originally made with homespun yarn” (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/). The individual threads are more coarse than in other fabrics. Please don’t imagine that Homespun is overly coarse, however. Rather, I appreciate that when I run my hands along a piece, I can “feel” its grain.

One more charm on this fabric’s growing list is that my husband particularly likes it. He is not one to be interested in fancy frills. He’s a simple man with down-to-earth preferences, and I treasure him for being a stable, straightforward influence in our home. Since he likes Homespun fabric, I’ll be keeping it around.

Homespun kitchen towels and napkins

This month’s project — kitchen towels and napkins — uses Homespun fabric. I have been enjoying my own set of kitchen towels and napkins for three weeks. They are lightweight and slightly rough for a good drying texture. No matter how you hang them, wring them out or fold them, there’s no back side to cover up because the fabric is woven without a wrong side. The towels and napkins hold up well in the wash. When removed promptly from the dryer and smoothed out, they need little or no pressing. From the myriads of plaid or checked Homespun material available, you will be able to find just the right pattern to match your kitchen or dining room.

When you purchase Homespun fabric, keep a few things in mind. First, the bolt label will usually say “Homespun” on it. Additionally, check both sides of the fabric to make sure that there is no wrong side; rather, both sides will look identical. Third, Homespun patterns are usually plaid or checked. Finally, be aware that not all Homespuns are good quality; a terribly thin or see-through fabric will not hold up well for daily use.

Due to the coarser nature of this fabric, the checks and plaids don’t always line up symmetrically when cutting. Don’t stress about this. Cut the fabric to the dimensions indicated in the instructions and let the plaids and checks work themselves out in their own rustic fashion.

Have fun with these projects! Consider sending me a picture of your finished towels or napkins — I’d love to see what you’ve done. You can reach me at wardeh@t2chk.org with any comments or suggestions.

HOMESPUN KITCHEN TOWELS

makes 2 towels

Materials Needed:

• 1 yard Homespun fabric
• thread

Instructions:

1. Pre-wash and press the fabric. Cut fabric in half, parallel to the salvage edges.

2. On both pieces, fold over each edge 1/4 inch and press. Fold over 1/4 inch again and press. At corners, choose one edge to overlap the other.

3. Seam around entire outer edge of each towel, close to the inner folded edge. Clip threads.

4. Easy variation: Use a zig-zag stich or serger to finish raw edges of each towel.

HOMESPUN NAPKINS

makes 12 napkins

Materials Needed:

• 1 and 2/3 yards Homespun fabric
• thread

1. Pre-wash and press the fabric. Cut the fabric into four equal strips perpendicular to the salvage edges.

2. Cut each strip into three squares, for a total of 12 squares. Before cutting, each strip will be about 44 to 45 inches long. Either cut each strip into three equal pieces, or cut off the first two squares at 15 inch intervals, which will leave the third square to be somewhat less than 15 inches long. For these rustic napkins, the variances are not only acceptable, they are desirable.

3. On each of the twelve napkins, fold over each edge 1/4 inch and press. Fold over 1/4 inch again and press. At corners, choose one edge to overlap the other.

4. Seam around entire outer edge of each napkin, close to the inner folded edge. Clip threads.

5. Easy variation: Use a zig-zag stitch or serger to finish raw edges of each napkin.

© Copyright 2006 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.

This article was originally published in the February 2006 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.

by Wardeh Harmon

At the Titus 2 Christian HomeKeeper message board, we have begun our first ever T2CHK Quilt Block Swap. The ladies committed to the swap are signing on for quite a bit of work. I imagine there are even more ladies who love to quilt, but don’t have the time to spare to commit to a large project like our quilt block swap.

These Just-a-Few-Quilt-Blocks projects are great for the reason that they use true quilting techniques, but on a smaller — and more doable — scale. You can complete them in a day or two, or even perhaps in a few hours. Fairly soon, you’ll be enjoying your new creations.

Happy quilting! I welcome your comments, questions or suggestions. Email me at wardeh@t2chk.org.

THREE QUILT BLOCK TABLE RUNNER

Finished Size: 30-1/2″ x 11″

This table runner, being constructed of three quilt blocks, creates an ideal setting for a piece of pottery, a vase full of fresh flowers or a candle. Set your centerpiece item in the middle and let the blocks to each side show it (and themselves) off.

You can use any 9-1/2″ unfinished quilt block you’d like. There are numerous ideas and free patterns on the internet. A google search for “free quilt block patterns” will give you a lengthy list of choices. I enjoy looking for blocks at the Fraser Valley Quilters’ Guild website.

Three Quilt Block Table Runner ~ Evening Star blocks in medium greens and cream.

Three Quilt Block Table Runner ~ Evening Star blocks in deep reds and cream.

Needed Materials

• (3) 9-1/2″ unfinished quilt blocks
• (4) 1-1/2″ x 9″ strips (vertical borders)
• (2) 1-1/2″ x 32″ strips (horizontal borders)
• (2) 2″ x 45″ strips (double-fold binding)
• (1) 13″ x 33″ rectangle of backing fabric
• (1) 13″ x 33″ rectangle of batting

All seam allowances are 1/4″. Press seams in the direction that will result in the least amount of bulk. Where possible, press seams toward the darker fabrics.

1. Construct Quilt Blocks

Instructions for completing the Evening Star blocks (shown) can be found here. Whatever blocks you choose, make sure they are 9-1/2″ unfinished, or adjust the pattern dimensions accordingly. Trim blocks to make sure they are all the same size.

2. Add Borders

With right sides together, sew one 1-1/2″ x 9″ strip to the left side of one block and then sew another 1-1/2″ x 9″ strip to the right side of the same block. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Attach a second block to the strip on the right of the first block. Add a border strip to the second block, and so on, until all four 1-1/2″ x 9″ strips and the three blocks are sewn together in a row. Trim strips to the correct dimension as you go. Clip threads. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.

Sew the 1-1/2″ x 32″ strips to the top and bottom of the row of squares, right sides together. Clip threads. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.

3. Assemble Table Runner

Starting from the bottom, stack the pieces in this order:

a. backing, wrong side up
b. batting
c. row of quilt blocks, right side up

The batting and backing should be larger than the row of blocks, so center the blocks in the middle. Pin layers together.

4. Quilting

Use your preferred method of quilting — either tying, or hand- or machine-stitching — to secure all layers together. I machine-quilted the table runners shown by stitching an outline around each star and by stitching at the edge of each block inside the border strips, forming a square around the star.

5. Assemble Double-Fold Binding

Take the (2) 2″ x 45″ strips. Right sides together, place the end of one strip perpendicular to the end of the other strip, with each strip set in 1/4″ from the end of the other strip. Sew a diagonal seam to join the two strips so that they are now one long continuous straight strip. Trim the excess, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams open. Fold and press the long strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.

6. Attach Binding

Start attaching the binding in the middle of a side of the table runner, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the table runner top, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold. Sew the binding to the first side of the table runner, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge.

Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the table runner from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the quilt and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the table runner. Repeat this technique around all sides, until you approach the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place. Backstitch and remove the table runner from the sewing machine. Clip threads.

Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn the binding to the back side and hand stitch in place, covering the machine stitches with the folded edge of the binding.

QUILT BLOCK POTHOLDER

Finished size: 8-1/4″ x 8-1/4″

This is a fantastic project for using up scraps or leftover blocks. I made pairs of these potholders for Christmas gifts in 2005. I constructed the block for each potholder out of leftover half-square triangles from a quilt wall hanging.

Quilt Block Potholder ~ A four-patch variation block in blues, tans and cream.

Needed Materials

• (1) 6-1/2″ unfinished quilt block
• (2) 1-1/4″ x 7″ strips (borders)
• (2) 1-1/4″ x 9″ strips (borders)
• (1) 2″ x 45″ strip (double-fold binding)
• (1) 9″ square of backing fabric
• (2) 9″ rectangles of batting

All seam allowances are 1/4″. Press seams in the direction that will result in the least amount of bulk. Also, press toward the darker fabrics, where possible.

1. Construct Quilt Block

Choose any 6-1/2″ unfinished quilt block, or adjust the pattern to fit another block dimension of your choice. The potholder shown is a simple four-patch block made up of four half-square triangles.

2. Add Borders

With right sides together, sew the 1-1/4″ x 7″ strips to the left and right side of the block. Clip threads. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.

Sew the 1-1/4″ x 9″ strips to the top and bottom of the block, right sides together. Clip threads. Trim strips to the correct dimension. Press seams open with seam allowance toward the border strips.

3. Assemble Potholder

Starting from the bottom, stack the pieces in this order:

a. backing, wrong side up
b. batting, 2 layers
c. quilt block, right side up

The batting and backing should be larger than the block, so center the block in the middle. Pin layers together.

4. Quilting

Use your preferred method of quilting — either tying, or hand- or machine-stitching — to secure all layers together. The potholder shown holds five ties made from DMC craft thread, one in the middle and one in each corner.

5. Attach Binding

Fold and press the long binding strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. Start attaching the binding in the middle of a side of the potholder, not at a corner. Align the binding strip right sides together with the edge of the potholder top, raw edges even. Fold over the beginning raw edge of the binding approximately one inch. Begin sewing 1/2″ from the fold. Sew the binding to the first side of the potholder, through all layers, 1/4″ from the raw edge.

Stop sewing 1/4″ before the corner. Backstitch and remove the potholder from the sewing machine. Clip threads. Fold the binding strip up away from the potholder and make a diagonal fold. Hold the diagonal fold in place with your finger, while bringing the binding down so the raw edges of the binding are aligned with the next side of the potholder. Repeat this technique around all sides, until you are approaching the beginning of the binding. Cut the binding end so that it will overlap the beginning binding by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Sew in place. Backstitch and remove the potholder from the sewing machine. Clip threads.

Trim away the extra backing and batting, leaving 1/4″. Turn the binding to the back side and hand stitch in place, covering the machine stitches with the folded edge of the binding.

6. Optional

Instead of making your own double-fold binding, you can use packaged double-fold binding made by Wright’s. One package is sufficient to complete approximately three potholders of this size.

© Copyright 2006 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.

This article was originally published in the January 2006 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.

by Wardeh Harmon

We recently moved to a larger house where we have more space, but not many items to display, so I’ve worked on a few projects to spice up our decor. For the Calendar Wall Collage, I featured striking photos of stained glass windows to add interest to a blank living room wall. The Family Abstract Art helped us make great memories while filling up a whole wall above our lonely couch. Finally, the Homespun Patchwork Throw Pillows dressed up that same couch using leftover scraps of Homespun fabric. Whether you have space to fill or you want to add a spark to your furnishings, I think you’ll find something you can’t wait to try!

CALENDAR WALL COLLAGE

The university I attended sent out a calendar last year featuring the glorious stained glass windows from the campus chapel. I framed my favorite six windows’ photos in 5″ by 7″ clip frames, and then hung the group of them together, making a collage on the wall. You can use virtually any paper artwork that you find memorable — a calendar’s pages, your child’s paper artwork, or pictures from a magazine. If you don’t fancy the clip frames, choose another frame that you like. Opt for a wall arrangement that suits your style, either symmetrical or staggered.

Calendar Wall Collage

Needed Materials

• Tape or glue (acid-free)
• Artwork from a calendar, magazines, or children’s drawings
• Clip frames, one for each piece of artwork in an appropriate size
• Cardstock, several sheets in a coordinating dark color

Instructions

1. Trim artwork to desired size. Cut cardstock to frame size.

2. Glue or tape artwork to cardstock, orienting it as you prefer.

3. Insert into clip frame following manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Hang on wall in desired arrangement.

FAMILY ABSTRACT ART

I purchased three canvases and informed my children that all I wanted for Christmas was for each one of them to paint me a masterpiece. The idea came from Family Fun Magazine (February 2004). My children practiced for a few weekends on large sheets of paper before they moved on to painting the canvases. When they painted, I directed them with four simple rules:

1) fill the entire top of the canvas with color
2) be consistent with shapes
3) paint large, not small, patches of color
4) paint contrasting colors next to each other

Your rules may be more loose or more stringent than mine, depending on your tastes.

Family Abstract Art

Needed Materials

• Stretched canvas for each family member, 18″ by 24″, or your preferred size
• 4 or 5 acrylic paint colors to match your decor, some light and some dark
• Paint brushes
• Plastic cups to use as water basins, one for each painter
• Foam plates to use as palettes, one for each painter
• Paper towels

Instructions

1. Squeeze paint onto foam plates. Give each painter a paintbrush, a palette, a water basin, and a paper towel folded in fourths and laid flat.

2. Dip paint brush in water, blot out extra water on paper towel, dip brush in paint, then spread paint on the canvas. Rinse brush in water and blot on the paper towel before changing paint colors.

3. After they are complete, hang the canvases on the wall in your desired arrangement.

4. Optional: Paint the sides of each canvas with a dark color, like black, to cover up any paint that may have escaped the top.

PATCHWORK HOMESPUN THROW PILLOWS

I love how a variety of Homespun fabrics sewn together look like scraps cut from old shirts. Using extra Homespun material I have from making quilt wall hangings, I created these to fill the need for throw pillows on my couch in the family room. The two pillows vary from each other in that they have a different print on each back and a unique arrangement of squares. Each pillow calls for 25 squares of Homespun fabric, but each square doesn’t have to be different from the others — aim for as much variety as possible by doubling up on the prints you like best until you have enough for each pillow.

Patchwork Homespun Throw Pillows

Needed Materials

Makes (2) 15″ pillows

• (50) 3 1/2″ squares of assorted Homespun fabrics (pillow tops)
• (2) 17″ squares of coordinating Homespun fabric (pillow backs)
• (2) 20 ounce packages of washable, non-bunching polyester craft stuffing
• black thread

Instructions

1. Each pillow top consists of (25) 3 1/2″ squares, arranged in a five by five grid. Arrange the 25 squares for each pillow top to your satisfaction. Sew the squares* for each row together, then sew the rows together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams in your desired fashion. When each pillow top is complete, trim the edges to square it up.

2. Lay each pillow top on the coordinating pillow back, right sides together. Trim the pillow back to match the dimensions of the pillow top. Sew each top to its back with a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a 7″ opening on one side. Turn each pillow right side out.

3. Stuff pillows to desired fullness. Hand stitch the opening on each pillow closed.

*Homespun fabrics don’t have a right or wrong side. If you use other material, you need to sew right sides together.

© Copyright 2006 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.

This article was originally published in the October 2005 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.

by Wardeh Harmon

“I praise you because I am fearfully and wonderfully made.” — Psalm 139:14

At a mom’s group I attended last spring, we together created amazingly simple, but tremendously unique baby quilts. Each mom painted a couple of muslin squares using simple coloring book pictures as our inspiration. A few ladies with basic sewing skills each took home nine squares (enough for one quilt top), flannel backing, and blanket binding. We couldn’t believe it when a few weeks later, the quilts came back assembled into precious, distinctive gifts. As a group, we made several baby quilts to give to struggling new moms.

You may be part of a mom’s group that is looking for meaningful gifts to give new moms. Or perhaps your dear friend just gave birth and you’ve been looking for just the perfect gift. I hope you will love making these easy painted quilts for your gift giving occasions.

Photo 1: Animal Quilt — This fun blue and green quilt is all about animals ~ a panda, a dolphin, a lion, an elephant and a bird. I chose a blue, green and brown striped flannel for the back. Every picture came from a barnyard coloring book… so easy! I stuck to my rule of only three colors ~ lime green, leaf green and periwinkle blue. I went for the antique brown outline look by using a black dry erase marker instead of a permanent black marker.

Photo 2: Psalm 139 Quilt — Four verses from Psalm 139 adorn this quilt ~ “For You created my inmost being,” “You knit me together in my mother’s womb,” “I praise You because I am fearfully and wonderfully made,” and “All the days ordained for me were written in Your book.” The middle square features my friend’s new baby girl’s name and her date of birth along with a set of baby footprints. The coordinating squares come from an antique blue and red floral fabric that I picked up at a thrift shop one blessed day.

PAINTED NINE-PATCH BABY QUILT INSTRUCTIONS

The following pattern incorporates five painted squares and four squares of complimentary patterned or solid cotton. Coordinate colors of the four unpainted squares with the flannel backing and blanket binding. (See Photo 1 and Photo 2 for examples of finished quilts.)

Needed Materials

• 5 (11 inch by 11 inch) squares of pre-washed unbleached muslin
• 4 (11 inch by 11 inch) squares of pre-washed solid or patterned cotton
• 1 yard flannel, solid or patterned, pre-washed
• 1 package Wright’s blanket binding
• white or ivory thread
• thread to match blanket binding (optional)
• 4 or 5 acrylic paint colors (black plus 3 or 4 other colors which coordinate with flannel and blanket binding color choices)
• coloring book pages
• paint brushes (fine line brush for outlining and lettering, fuller brushes for filling in colors)
• extra fine-line black permanent marker
• newspaper

1. Paint Quilt Squares

Before you paint, think of a theme. For almost certain painting success, find five designs in coloring books that work well with the theme. Look for simple pages, preferably with one large dominating image. Some great, simple themes that would be easily supported by coloring book pages are animals, summer fun, sports, or angels.

With your theme and supporting images ready to go, start painting each square. Protect your work surface by placing newspaper underneath the quilt squares. Leave a one to two inch border around the edge of each square free of painting. This blank white space will set off your painting, just like a frame.

Slip coloring pages under the muslin squares to guide your artwork. Trace just the main lines, using an extra fine-line permanent black marker (or a fine line brush and black paint). Remove the coloring page and “color” in the picture using a fuller brush dipped in other paint colors.

If you prefer painting without the aid of coloring pages, go for it. You can practice your drawings first, if you’d like. Draw your design on paper and then slip the paper under the muslin square. You will be able to trace the drawing (with a permanent black marker or black paint) right onto the square. Or practice your design right on the fabric by using light pencil marks, which you can then paint over. Be aware that if you use light colored paint over pencil, the pencil marks may show permanently.

Dress up Your Painting

• Center drawing or lettering as much as possible. If lettering isn’t quite centered, don’t despair. I like to paint hearts or flowers to take up any extra space.

• Draw just the first letter of a phrase in cursive to dress up printing.

• Keep colors simple. Too much color gets lost. Use only three or four colors for filling in. Colors don’t have to be used realistically. Ears can be blue, eyes can be pink, and grass can be purple. If you use the same colors throughout the quilt (and each color does not have to be on each square), your consistency will tie them all together. (See photo 4.)

Photo 4: Lion Close-Up — Features do not have to be painted in realistic colors to be effective.

• Don’t be afraid of white space. Add color in just a few features of an outlined image. Leave just a thin bead of irregular white space between a patch of color and the outline. (See photo 5.)

Photo 5: Dolphin Close-Up — This cute little dolphin isn’t entirely painted. Notice that only the water splashes and his eyes, fins and tongue are painted in. Also, within each area I’ve painted, I’ve left a bead of white space between the color and the outline.

• To end up with outlines of an antique brown color after heat setting, use an extra fine line black draw-erase marker. However, the marker lines can smear by painting too close to them, so preserve white space with this technique.

• Don’t be a perfectionist. Handmade crafts are in fashion. People adore products that look a little less than perfect.

• Engage children in the project. Use their hand- and foot-prints. Let them paint and color simple shapes or words.

2. Heat Set Painted Squares

Let the painted squares dry for 24 hours. Toss in dryer on high heat for 50 minutes. Remove. Wash in washing machine on gentle cycle with cold water. Dry completely. Press flat.

3. Assemble Quilt Squares

Lay out the five finished painted squares and four coordinating squares on a flat surface in a checkerboard pattern. Arrange them as you prefer. Put your best square or the “theme” square in the middle.

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, begin sewing. With right sides together sew the first and second squares together at the right edge of the first square, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Open up the first and second squares and lay them flat. Lay the third square down on top of the second square with right sides together. Sew the edges together at the right edge of the second square, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Lay aside. Continue sewing the second row and third row in the same fashion. Press seams open or toward the darker colored squares.

Lay the first row on top of the second row, right sides together (the pictures in the first row will be right side up and the pictures in the second row will be upside down). Line up all seams and edges. Pin in place. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the first and second rows together at the bottom edge of the first row. Open up the first and second rows and lay them flat. Lay the third row on top of the second, right sides together (now the pictures in the second row will be right side up and the pictures in the third row will be upside down). Line up all seams and edges. Pin in place. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the second and third rows together at the bottom edge of the second row. Lay entire quilt out flat and press seams open or toward the darker colored squares.

4. Add Flannel Back

Press flannel so that it is completely smooth. Lay it out on a flat surface with the wrong side up. Lay the quilt top, right side up, on top of the flannel so that two of the four edges match. Pin together. Cut the flannel to match the exact size of the quilt top.

If you have a dark colored or patterned flannel, it may show through the muslin. In this case, cut a piece of light colored fabric (another piece of muslin or a light-colored sheet) the same size as the entire quilt top. Layer it in between the quilt top and flannel back. It will become a permanent part of the quilt. Pin all layers together.

Stay stitch all the layers together by sewing a seam 1/4 inch from the quilt’s edge all the way around the quilt.

5. Attach Blanket Binding

For less noticeable stitching, use a thread color that matches the binding color. Read carefully and follow the directions at the Wright’s website to attach the blanket binding.

Even though the binding is seemingly simple to attach, it can be a tricky. I have found that a few additional instructions are helpful.

Additional Blanket Binding Instructions

• Start attaching the binding at the bottom edge, about 1/3 of the way from the bottom right-hand corner. Pin the binding to the bottom edge, overlapping the binding over the blanket edge by 1/2 inch. Leaving four inches unsewn at the beginning, sew along the very edge of the binding all the way to the end of this side. DO NOT CUT BINDING. Follow the Wright’s website directions to pin the first corner and second side. Continue pinning and sewing just one corner and side at a time.

• When you finish attaching the binding around the last corner and are approaching the point where you started, cut the end binding so that it overlaps the beginning binding by about three inches. Tuck the end binding under the beginning binding. Turn the beginning binding edge under 1/2 inch and pin down, lining up the edges. Now you can finish stitching along the blanket edge.

• Topstitch perpendicular to the blanket edge along the folded edge of beginning binding to secure. Go back to each corner and sew along the diagonal to secure the mitered corners.

6. Variations

• Use nine muslin squares and paint all the squares in the quilt top.

• Add contrasting fabric strips in between the nine squares.

• Add bulk to the quilt by putting a thick layer in between the quilt top and the flannel back, such as a blanket or batting.

• Challenge your color ideas. Use colors that normally don’t go together, like red and pink, or orange and blue. Give a quilt in an unexpected color to a new baby. In the Psalm 139 Quilt (Photo 2), even though the main color is soft blue, the blanket is just right for a baby girl because of the feminine antique red and blue floral design.

7. Bless a Precious Child

Now that you’ve dreamed up a quilt and fashioned it together, you’re ready to give your lovingly painted, unique baby quilt to a little baby who will need and cherish it.

If you’re like me, much delight comes from working on a project and watching it come to life. In most cases, I marvel that a home arts project could turn out so beautifully. But no matter how much pleasure the creating brings, I receive even more joy from giving away something I’ve dreamt in my heart and fashioned with my hands. This is perhaps why not many things that I’ve made remain in my house. The two baby quilts I worked on to draw up this pattern are soon to be delivered into the hands of two of my dear friends who each have just had a new baby. I will enjoy that more than anything!

I would love to see a photo of the quilt you create. I welcome all your comments, suggestions and photos at wardeh@t2chk.org.

© Copyright 2005 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.

This article was originally published in the November 2005 issue of 2TCHKeepers, the T2CHK E-Zine.

by Wardeh Harmon

“For since the creation of the world His invisible attributes are clearly seen, being understood by the things that are made…” Romans 1:20

I am marveling at the stunning autumn colors surrounding me. When I reflect on all the blessings for which I am thankful, I am especially grateful for the beauty in God’s world. I can’t help but recognize that our God, who created such a world for us, must care deeply for His people. I find God’s artistry incomparable! He creates a masterpiece of endless variety each fall.

As a family, we recently started taking a walk together on weekend afternoons. A few weeks ago, we gathered supple autumn leaves on our Sunday afternoon walk. I planned to incorporate nature into our autumn crafts this year, but my craft hunting led me to try a few new techniques. I have four projects to share with you this month ~ preserving autumn leaves, leaf coasters, leaf ornaments and a naturally beautiful paper platter. I hope you’ll feel the same way I do when completing these projects — extremely grateful that God gave us an inspirational, spectacular world to explore.

I was moved to try the first technique, preserving leaves, because we grieve each year when our leaves crumble after a few days. Much to my delight, I found the technique to solve this problem when thumbing through a library book, The Complete Book of Nature Craft Techniques by Deborah Morgenthal and Chris Rich. According to the authors, leaves will keep for a few years if preserved and stored properly.

PRESERVING AUTUMN LEAVES

adapted from The Complete Book of Nature Craft Techniques by Deborah Morgenthal and Chris Rich

Needed Supplies

• Autumn leaves
• Glycerin (available in the pharmacy or personal care department)
• Water
• Rubber bands
• Scissors or pruning shears
• Large glass jar
• Small glass containers or jars

Choose autumn leaves that are still supple. Make several bunches of leaves, using a loosely twisted rubber band to secure eight to ten stems in each bunch. Be careful — bunches that are bound too tightly may mold. With a scissors or pruning shears, cut the stem ends to equal lengths. Thoroughly mix three ounces of glycerin and one quart of water together in a large glass container. Stand each leaf bunch upright in a small glass container, with the stem ends at the bottom. Carefully add enough of the glycerin solution to cover the stems. Place the containers in a cool, dark place for about five days or until the leaves feels supple to the touch. Remove the leaves from the glycerin solution and store them in covered boxes.

We incorporated our soft, supple, preserved leaves in the two crafts that follow. The first — leaf coasters — I discovered in a Better Homes and Garden book, 100 Crafts Under $10. Who wouldn’t enjoy sipping a toasty mug of apple cider or herb tea on one of these coasters? If you don’t have preserved leaves, you may use freshly-discovered, supple autumn leaves instead. Since you need 2 to 4 color-copied leaves per coaster (depending on the size of your leaves), plan how many copies you need accordingly. I made extra color copies so I would have autumn leaves to decorate my scrapbooks, greeting cards and other handmade paper crafts.

Leaf Coasters



adapted from 100 Crafts Under $10 by Better Homes and Gardens

Needed Supplies

• Preserved or pressed leaves
• Paper
• Glue stick
• Color photocopier
• Heavy white cardstock
• Scissors
• Thick craft glue

Arrange preserved or pressed leaves of different shapes and colors on a sheet of paper, leaving a bit of space between them. Use a glue stick to secure the leaves to the paper. Make color copies of the leaves on the heavy white cardstock. Cut out the leaves. Arrange the leaves as desired, using craft glue to secure them to one another.

The following leaf ornaments make a lovely addition to a Thanksgiving centerpiece or arranged in a pretty bowl in a prominent place. Once the autumn season is over, convert them to hanging ornaments for your Christmas tree. My ornaments (pictured) use reddish leaves and red metallic thread. If you use leaves with other warm colors, pick a coordinating metallic thread. The best choices for fall would be warm colors like red, gold or copper.

Leaf Ornaments

Needed Supplies

• Preserved autumn leaves
• Styrofoam balls
• Glue gun and glue
• Metallic thread

Carefully outline the back of a preserved leaf with hot glue. Position and press into place around a styrofoam ball. Repeat until entire surface of ball is covered. Put dots of glue under the ends of leaf tips to secure down if necessary. Get thread end ready. Put dot of glue just underneath a leaf and press thread end into it until secure. Wind thread around leaf to desired arrangement, keeping it taut. Cut thread end, while holding it so it doesn’t unravel. Put another dot of glue just underneath a leaf that thread end will reach. Press thread end into the glue until secure.

Finally, I desired a natural looking platter for a centerpiece, so when I found this idea in 101 Crafts Under $10 by Butterick, I couldn’t wait to try it. I filled my finished paper platter with spanish moss, decorative gourds and some as yet unidentified prickly burrs my husband brought me from outdoors. If you would like a differently shaped platter, consider using a large plate or pie dish as your mold.

Paper Platter

adapted from 101 Crafts Under $10 by Butterick

Needed Supplies

• Corrugated cardboard (recycle a box, inside or outside side unmarked)
• Decoupage medium
• Jute twine
• Metal or glass loaf pan
• Spongebrush
• White craft glue
• Petroleum jelly or oil spray
• Tack cloth
• Bowl of warm water
• Paper towels

Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly or oil spray to inside of pan. Tear cardboard into random pieces, not larger than 2 by 3 inches. Place cardboard in bowl with some warm water. Soak for a few minutes until corrugated layers separate. Throw away all middle layer pieces. Squeeze out excess water, then place between some paper towels to remove even more water.

Coat one side of paper with decoupage medium and begin arranging paper inside pan, starting at bottom of pan and working up sides. Use fingers to smooth paper in place. Apply thin coat of medium over each layer of paper before applying the next layer. Repeat process two more times so that there are three layers of paper. Wait until all three layers of paper are dry (12 to 24 hours). Store unused damp papers in a plastic bag for later.

After paper “pan” is completely dry, carefully remove it from the loaf pan. Wipe off any remaining petroleum jelly or oil with a dry cloth. Add one or two more layers of paper on outside of paper “pan” to complete. Allow to dry completely, then apply another coat of decoupage medium to inside and outside.

To make handles, cut off two pieces of jute twine to desired length, leaving enough room to knot both ends. Knot both ends of each length. Glue one to each end of pan.

I welcome your comments, questions or suggestions at wardeh@t2chk.org. Happy Autumn!

© Copyright 2005 by Wardeh Harmon. Used with permission from the author.